Kundan Crest Turtle Ring with Russian Emerald and Diamond Polkis

This turtle-shaped ring features a magnificent Russian emerald as its shell, symbolizing longevity and wisdom. The emerald is adorned with polki diamonds, which are set using the revered Kundan technique in 22K gold, highlighting the ring’s opulence. The turtle’s head is studded with diamonds on 9K gold, adding a sparkling contrast to the rich green hue of the shell. The fins are delicately set with pink tourmalines on 9K gold, representing compassion and healing. The ring’s shank, also in 9K gold, provides a sturdy yet elegant foundation for this exquisite piece.

The Polki diamonds are rare and historic, their presence in jewelry dating back centuries, symbolizing wealth and status. Polki is a diamond in its most natural form—uncut, unfaceted, and unpolished. The diamond does not undergo several stages of processing to take on its ultimate shape as polished diamonds do.

Emerald is a prized gem of the Maharajas and Mughal magnificence, praised in old Sanskrit stories before the Pyramids. Russian emeralds are a captivating gemstone with a rich history and unique characteristics that set them apart in the world of precious stones. Discovered in the early 19th century in the Ural Mountains, the most notable deposit is the Malysheva mine, which was the world’s largest emerald producer at the start of World War I. These emeralds are known for their distinct color variations and unique inclusions, which are a result of the country’s tectonic history and the presence of chromium and vanadium. Emerald is a relatively hard gemstone – about 7.5 or 8 on the Mohs scale, yet it is also brittle, making it a challenging gemstone to cut. The so-called emerald cut – rectangular or square, with bevelled edges – was specially developed to show emeralds off to best advantage while minimizing the risk of fracturing or chipping. The most desirable emerald colors are bluish green to pure green, with vivid color saturation, tone and highly transparent, with even colour distribution.

Kundan setting is a remarkable and ancient jewelry-making technique that originated in India, with its history tracing back to at least the 3rd century BC. It flourished under the patronage of the Mughal era, becoming a significant part of India’s rich cultural heritage. The term ‘Kundan’ itself means ‘pure gold,’ and the technique involves setting gemstones with gold foil between them and their mount, usually for elaborate necklaces and other pieces of jewelry. What makes Kundan setting so special and rare is its intricate and labor-intensive process. It begins with the creation of a skeletal framework called ‘Ghaat.’ Then, through a series of steps involving wax setting, stone fitting, enameling, and finally, the ‘Pakai’ process, the gemstones are set into the gold framework. This method allows for a high level of precision and detail, enabling the creation of exquisite and elaborate designs that are not possible with other techniques. The rarity of Kundan setting also comes from the skill required to execute it. It demands a high level of craftsmanship and years of training to perfect. The technique is still practiced in a few regions, with Jaipur in Rajasthan being the traditional center for Kundan jewelry in India. The use of pure, 22-24 karat gold in the form of finely beaten foil is another aspect that adds to its rarity and value.

The piece took 7 craftsmen 4 months to complete.

Russian Emerald Bead : 44.05 ct.(Approx)
Polkis Diamond : 1.10 ct. (Approx) 
Rose cut diamond : 0.32 ct.
Tourmaline : 0.755 ct.

Size# 54
Weight 23.51 g.