Scarab: A Study in Time, Process, and Craft
The Making of Scarab Jewellery at Lotus Arts de Vivre
At Lotus Arts de Vivre, beauty reveals itself through time, attention, and material discipline. It is something discovered slowly, through patience, attention, and a deep respect for materials that resist haste. Scarab wings embody this philosophy not through symbolism, but through the discipline required to work with them.
Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, The Queen Mother of Thailand (1932–2025), was instrumental in reviving the traditional Thai art of using iridescent jewel beetle wings (Thauria albitarsis) in embroidery, accessories, and jewellery. By incorporating naturally iridescent green-blue scarab wings into her attire for formal and state occasions, she brought Thai craftsmanship into public view, recognising the extraordinary sensitivity of Thai artisans’ hands. This precise and disciplined handwork, refined over generations, helped sustain a rare cultural practice rooted in material intelligence.
Handcrafted Ladybug Earrings with Scarab & Diamonds
Sourcing: Nature, Uninterrupted
At Lotus Arts de Vivre, scarab is approached first and foremost as a material.
Contrary to assumption, scarab wings are not fragile. Structurally, they are remarkably durable and naturally resilient. Scarab beetles are indigenous to Thailand, particularly in forested areas and tamarind orchards, resulting in limited availability—though rarely understood or handled with sufficient skill.
Lotus Arts de Vivre has over forty years of experience working with this exceptional material and is among the very few ateliers to have perfected the techniques required to reveal the intrinsic beauty of scarab wings. Through a painstaking, hand-led process, the atelier has fully mastered their integration with precious raw materials. This mastery is not theoretical; it is the result of decades of refinement, rejection, and uncompromising technical discipline.
In contemporary jewellery and objet design, scarab wings are sometimes used as a material and visual alternative to traditional enamel, particularly Meenakari (desi enamel). Unlike enamel, scarab colour is not applied; it is structural. Microscopic layers within the chitin refract light rather than absorb it, producing an iridescence that does not fade. With proper care, this colour can endure for well over a century.
At LAdV, we do not breed, harvest, or interfere with scarab beetles in any way. Wings are collected only after the beetles have completed their natural life cycle and fallen to the forest floor. Local collectors gather what nature has already released, during specific seasons and in limited quantities. Sustainability here is achieved not through control, but through restraint.
Hand-Selected Scarab Wing with Natural Iridescence
Sorting and Preparation: An Eye Trained Over Years
Once the wings arrive at the atelier, they are sorted entirely by hand. Colour, curvature, translucency, thickness, and surface tension are assessed individually. Many wings are rejected—not because they are flawed, but because they do not harmonise with the requirements of a particular piece. There is no standardisation, and no attempt to force material into compliance.
Preparing a single wing is time-consuming. Each wing is cleaned, trimmed with jeweller’s scissors, and thinned from the reverse using fine abrasives. The iridescent surface is never touched. If curvature is required, the wing is gently warmed by hand and pressed into shape on a soft former. Too much heat compromises the structure; too little, and the wing resists entirely.
This process is repeated hundreds—sometimes thousands—of times for a single creation. A scarab piece is intensely labour-intensive. A fully realised handbag, for example, can take six to eight months to complete. The material dictates the pace. This is why scarab jewellery cannot be mass-produced.
Setting: A Steady Hand, A Shimmering Legacy
Setting follows a mosaic logic. Wings are dry-fitted to achieve a calm, continuous colour flow before being placed individually with silicone-tipped tools. A single dot of adhesive is applied with a syringe; any excess is removed immediately before curing in a dust-free environment. Protective bezels or raised galleries are added only where required, and lacquer, when used, is brushed around—never over—the wings themselves. Each piece undergoes intensive quality control before approval, ensuring it meets Lotus Arts de Vivre’s exacting standards.
The Vanishing Gem: Securing a Legacy in Shimmering Scarcity
As pesticide use has increasingly affected scarab populations, supply has become more limited. Combined with the extreme labour involved, scarab works have become highly sought after by collectors and increasingly recognised as investment pieces.
At a recent auction, a monumental peacock composed entirely of scarab wings and diamonds—a clustered, sculptural work—achieved a reported price of approximately USD 260,000. Not for gemstones, nor metal weight, but for mastery of material and the courage to work without shortcuts.
Scarab Couture Crochet Collar with Diamond & Pearl
Setting: A Decade of Discipline Before the First Shimmer
Most jewellers choose not to work with scarab wings. Training a craftsman to handle the material confidently takes years, often more than a decade. At Lotus Arts de Vivre, new artisans begin with wood, shell, and lacquer long before scarab is introduced.
Scarabs are not produced here in volume. Each piece is curated. Each decision is deliberate. The role of the atelier is not to dominate the material, but to preserve the knowledge required to work with it properly.
Scarab Couture Feather Collar with Diamond
Nature gives.
The responsibility of Lotus Arts de Vivre is to listen.
This is how scarab jewellery is made—not as symbolism, but as a testament to time, discipline, and restraint.
Discover the Scarab Collection. There is nothing else made this way.
